Chal Mantocillo malabrigo Mora

Abbreviations

Stitch Guide for Devanalana Patterns

[printfriendly]

 

Stitch Guide

CO cast on

BO bind off

BOR beginning of round

MC Main color

CC Contrasting Color

st(s) stitch(es)

k knit

p purl

LN Left Needle

RN Right Needle

pm place marker

slm slip marker

pBORm place beginning of round marker

sBORm slip beginning of round marker

rBORm remove beginning of round marker

RS Right side of work

WS wrong side of work

KFB Knit into the front and back of same stitch (1 stitch increased). Knit the first stitch on your main needle. Before taking the stitch off the main needle, insert the tip of your working needle into the backside of the loop and knit it through the back loop. Then pull the stitch off the needle.  You have now increased 1 stitch.

KFBF Knit into the front and back, then the front again of same stitch (2 stitches increased). Knit the first stitch on your main needle. Before taking the stitch off the main needle, insert the tip of your working needle into the backside of the loop and knit it through the back loop. Knit into the front of the same stitch again. Then pull the stitch off the needle. You have now increased 2 stitches.

M1R (Make One Right): Pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Then knit into the front of this stitch. (One stitch increased). This increase slants to the right.

M1L (Make One Left): Pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back. Then knit into the back of the stitch. (One stitch increased). This increase slants to the left.

YO (Yarn Over): Bring your yarn from the back of the work to the front of the work, under your needle. Take the yarn from the front of the work over the top of the working needle to the back of the work. (One stitch increased).

K2tog (Knit Two Together): Insert the right needle from front to back (knitwise) into the next two stitches on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the right needle (as when knitting) and pull it through. (One stitch decreased). This decrease slants to the right.

K2tog-tbl Knit 2 Together Through Back Loop (Left-Leaning Decrease). Step 1: Insert your working needle into the back leg of the first stitch on your main needle, going purlwise, and through the second stitch. They should cross each other forming an “X” with the working needle on bottom. Step 2: Wrap the working yarn over the working needle on bottom. Wrap by going under and around. Step 3: Pull the working yarn through with the working needle through both stitches on the main needle. Pull towards you. Step 4: Slip both stitches off the main needle.

K3tog: Knit 3 stitches together (2 stitches decrease, this decrease slants to the right)

SSK (Slip, Slip, Knit): Slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together. (One stitch decreased). This decrease slants to the left.

SSSK (Slip, Slip, Slip, Knit): Slip on stitch to the left needle as if to knit, put it back on the right needle in its new orientation (twisted) and knit with the next two ones through the back loop. (This is a left-leaning double decrease.).

SK2PSSO: slip 1 st as if to purl, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over the k2tog sts (2 sts decreased).

P2tog (Purl Two Together): Insert your working needle into the first two stitches on your main needle, purlwise. Wrap the working yarn over the working needle, going over the top and around the  bottom. Push the working yarn through both stitches on the main needle. Pull both stitches off the main needle. (One stitch decreased, left leaning slant)

SSP (Slip, Slip, Purl): On the wrong side of your fabric, slip the first stitch of the decrease to the working needle knitwise. Slip the second stitch of the decrease to the working needle knitwise. Place both slipped stitches back onto the main needle. Purl both stitches together through the back loop. (one st decreased). Left leaning decrease

Knitted Cast on: knit the first stitch on your left needle and, without  sliding your first st off the left needle, bring your newly knit st back to the left needle, you’ll have a new st on your left needle.

Picot Cast on: Start off with 1 st, and CO 4 more sts, then * knit 1 st, knit another st, pass the first knit st over this one (you are binding it off), knit 1 and pass it over the last knit st, binding it off, then bring the remaining st back to the left needle and CO 3 more st using the same CO method. Repeat from * until the desired number of sts.

Picot Bind off: * With the Knitted Cast On method, CO 2 sts, then knit 1 st, knit another st, pass the first knit st over this one (you are binding it off), knit 1 and pass it over the last knit st, binding it off, and repeat for another st, binding off a total of 3 sts, then bring the remaining st back to the left needle and repeat from * until there’s 1 st remaining on the needle. Bind it off.

Picot Edge: With the Knitted Cast On method, CO 2 sts, then knit 1 st, knit another st, pass the first knit st over this one (you are binding it off), knit 1 and pass it over the last knit st, binding it off, knit the rest of your row following the pattern or chart for the row your are in.

Elisabeth Zimmerman Sewn Bind Off: Simple method to loosely bind off, very convenient when binding off garments when you need the BO to be very stretchy. This is worked from left to right, in the opposite direction you have been knitting. Thread the darning needle with the working yarn, leaving enough length to BO all sts (3 or 4 times the length of the work sts you want to BO), then * insert the needle into the first 2 stitches on the knitting needle as if to purl and draw the yarn through, but not very tightly, as we are aiming for a loose BO. Reinsert the needle into the first stitch on the knitting needle as if to knit, draw the yarn through and slip the stitch off.* Repeat from * to *. Stretch out the bound off stitches every so often to keep things from getting too tight. At the end we’ll have one st left, insert the needle as if to knit and gently pull to close it off. This leaves a cast on row that has an appearance that is very similar to a long tail cast on.

Ddec-R (Double Decrease Right): slip 2 sts from the LN to a cable needle and keep it back and parallel to the LN. k1 from the LN and one from the cable needle together (or purl them, according to pattern) through the back loop, slip the remaining st from the cable needle to the LN (without twisting it) and knit it together with the next st on the LN.

Ddec-L (Double Decrease Left): slip 2 sts as if to purl from the LN to a cable needle and keep it front and parallel to the left needle, knit or purl, according to pattern, two sts together, one from the cable needle and one from the LN, slip the remaining st from the cable needle to the LN (without twisting it) and knit or purl it together with the next st on the LN.

Tubular Cast On Method: With a needle that is smaller than the one you’ll be using for the rest of the garment, and some waste yarn in a contrasting color, cast on half the sts you will need plus one using your prefered cast on method.

Set up Row: join the working yarn in, and purl all sts. Purl them right off the waste yarn.

Row 1 (increases, RS): k1, *pick up the yarn between the st you just purled and the one you are about to purl and place it on the left needle, inserting the left needle from front to back, purl this yarn (1 st increased), k1, repeat from * until you have 1 st left, slip it as if to purl.

Row 2: *With the working yarn in front, slip 1 st as if to purl, bring the yarn back, k1, repeat from * until you have 1 st left and, with the yarn in front, slip it as if to purl.

Row 3: With the working yarn back, slip 1 st as if to purl, bring the yarn to the front, p1, repeat from * to the end

Row 4: repeat Row 2

Tubular Bind Off Method: Bind Off using the Kitchener Stitch BO to create a rounded and elastic border, used in BO for ribbing. Divide the knit and purl sts into two different needles as follows: *slip the k st(s) to needle 1 (this needle will be in front), slip the p sts to needle 2 (this needle will be in the back), repeat from * until all sts are divided, with all the k sts on the front needle and the p sts on the back needle. We will now proceed to bind off using the Kitchener Stitch or Grafting, as follows:

Kitchener Stitch (Grafting):

Grafting Knit Stitches

Grafting or Kitchener Stitch is used to sew or join sts without binding them off as if they were knit, it’s an invisible join because the join looks knit. We must use the same yarn used for the garment, you will need a tail that is 3-4 times the length of your finished edge.

  • Step 1: With your waste yarn threaded through a tapestry needle, insert the needle into the first stitch on your main needle purlwise and pull all the way through. Drop the stitch from the main needle. [Note: If the first stitch is a purl stitch, insert the needle through the first two stitches and drop them both.]
  • Step 2: Insert your tapestry needle in the next purl stitch on your main needle knitwise and pull tight. (It should be the first stitch on your main needle). Leave this stitch on the main needle.
  • Step 3: Insert your tapestry needle into the dropped knit stitch, purlwise, and through the next knit stitch on your main needle (it should be the second stitch on your main needle) and pull tight.
  • Step 4: Insert your tapestry needle into the purl stitch on your main needle again, this time going purlwise. Pull tight.
  • Step 5: Drop both the purl and knit stitch from your main needle.

Repeat steps 2 – 5 until you have bound off all your stitches.

Grafting Purl Stitches

Work exactly as you would for a knit st, but the step sequence changes as follows:

  • Setting Up for Purl Stitches: Front Needle: Insert tapestry needle into stitch knitwise, pull stitch off needle, go into next stitch purlwise. Back Needle: Insert into stitch knitwise, pull stitch off needle, go into next stitch purlwise.
  • Grafting Purl Stitches: Front Needle: Insert tapestry needle into stitch knitwise, pull stitch off needle, go into next stitch purlwise. Back Needle: Insert into stitch knitwise, pull stitch off needle, go into next stitch purlwise

Blocking: Fill a sink or bucket with lukewarm water and add a bit of mild soap or wool wash, soak the shawl/garment completely, and gently squeeze, removing all air, making sure it is entirely wet. Let it soak for approx 30 minutes. Drain the sink or bucket and refill it with cool water. Keep rinsing the item until the water is clear and without suds. You can add a little fabric softener. Never place the item directly under the tap or water stream. Once rinsed, Squeeze the water out with your hands and wrap with a clean, dry towel and squeeze again (your own body weight can help remove excess water). The garment must end up a bit wet, but not soaked. Extend the shawl/garment over a flat surface and flatten out any wrinkle or crease, stretch to the specified size. You can use blocking pins and cables to set the shape if needed. Let dry flat.

W&T (Wrap & Turn): slip the next st from the LN to the RN as if to purl, bring the working yarn front, and slip the st back to the LN. Turn your work and the st will have been wrapped by the working yarn. Keep knitting back in the opposite direction you were knitting before the W&T

I-Cord Cast on: Cast on 3 sts with the Knit Cast On method. Knit the first on the front and back legs of the st (just like a kfb), then k2, slip 3 st from the RN to the LN leaving the 4ths st on your RN. *kfb, k2, sl3 from RN to LN (you will have one more st on your RN); repeat from * until you have the total number of sts, plus 2 on your RN. Turn your work, Bind Off the first st as if to purl, p2tog, and purl all the remaining sts until completing the row, then turn your work and all your sts are Cast On.

I-Cord Bind Off: Cast On 3 new sts at the beginning of your LN (right before the sts you are about to Bind Off) using the knitted Cast On. With the RS of your work facing you, work the I-Cord as follows: *k2, sl1 (as if to purl), sl1, knit these two slipped sts together through the front loop (1 st decreased), now slip the remaining 3 sts fro your RN to your LN, and repeat from * until there are just 3 sts left (the RS of your work will always be facing you and you will be pulling your working yarn from behind your work). Slip the 3 remaining sts back to the LN, the sl 1, k2tog the 2 remaining sts, and pass the slipped st over, you will now have just 1 st, break yarn and loop it through the center to finish it off.

Three Needle Bind Off
It is a great way to both bind off and seam at the same time – very often it is used for the shoulder seams of sweaters.
Note that a 3-Needle Bind Off and the Kitchener Stitch are somewhat interchangeable. The advantage of a 3-Needle Bind Off is that it’s easier to do and that, because it creates an actual seam, it offers some structural integrity. The Kitchener Stitch is a bit trickier to work, but it creates a smooth and seamless finish. Same but different!

  • To end up with the seam on the wrong side of your knitting, arrange the two pieces with their wrong sides facing out.
  • Hold the needles parallel and slip a third (working) needle into the first stitch on each of the two needles.
  • Wrap yarn around working needle as if to knit, and knit the two stitches together. Allow the first stitch from each of the parallel needles to fall from the needles.
  • Knit together the new first stitch on both parallel needles in the same way as above.
  • There will be two stitches on the working needle. Using one of the two parallel needles, pass the first stitch on the working needle over the second stitch and off the needle, as you normally would when binding off.
  • Repeat from * until only one stitch remains on the working needle. Break yarn and pull the tail through the last stitch to fasten off

 

[printfriendly]